Journey #003: Afghanistan
A long weekend in Afghanistan
Our Afghan Weekender is a short trip to Afghanistan designed for travellers who want to experience the country independently without a group over a few days or long weekend.
This trip is perfect for adventurous travellers living in or transiting through Istanbul, Dubai or Abu Dhabi.
Day #001
You’ll be greeted by Noory at Kabul International airport. Most international flights land early in the morning in the city, so you’ll have arrived from Dubai, Istanbul or Abu Dhabi the night before. You’ll be taken to our guest house in order to freshen up and have a rest before we head to Kabul’s famous National Museum. It’s a perfect way to ease yourself into Afghanistan’s story - the museum itself was looted during the Civil War and the building used as a base by the mujahideen.
You’ll finish your first day in Afghanistan with a walk through Kabul’s old city bazaar, to the timeless bird market. The narrow alley is one of the the country’s most picturesque as dozens of traders meet every day to sell fighting partridges, prize doves and song birds in traditionally made cages. It’s also the place that pigeon fanciers and every day Kabulians come to chew the fat, discuss the news and solve the country’s problems - they’re sure to be keen to know your opinion on the new Afghanistan.
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Artefacts in the National Museum
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Kabul city wall walk.
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Vendor in the bird market.
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Kabul city view.
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Joe having dinner at one of the bustling restuarants in Shar-E-Naw
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Playing hide and seek with street kids in the old city on Kabul.
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Joe buying a 'karakuli' hat in Kabul's main bazaar
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![Partridges for sale in Kabul's bird market]()
Partridges for sale in Kabul's bird market
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At Babur's mausoleum with friends.
Day #002
The day starts with an early hike across Kabul’s famous “wall walk”. The walk follows an ancient wall across Sher Derwaza (Lion’s Gate) mountain - parts of the tumbledown ramparts date from the 5th century AD. The wall starts at the ancient Bala Hissar Fort near the site where the British officer 'Bukhara' Burnes was killed by a mob in 1841, before snaking out from its towers along the mountain ridges. You’ll soon be well above the dirty air of the city to give some breathtaking views of the capital. Our route will take us down past the “noon cannon” and then down to Babur Gardens, home of the mausoleum of the Mughal ruler from the 16th century. The green, lush gardens are one of the calmest spots in Kabul and the perfect place to sit, dink green tea and recover from the morning’s hike.
After a quick lunch at a branch of the famous ‘Kunduz Kebab’ we’ll hit the road, exiting the Kabul’s chaotic gates and into the calm countryside of Maidan-Wardak province. The road snakes through dozens of villages and hamlets, until it climbs it’s way into the Koh-e Baba mountains creeping over snowy passes of over 2500m and finally to the ruined city of Shahr-e-Zohak. The ruins are an eerie reminder of Afghanistans very long and often violent past, and sit perched on the hillside at Bamyan’s eastern entrance. The once prosperous city was thought to have been built in the 6th century by the Ghorids, only for it to be destroyed by Genghis Khan’s in around the year 1200. It’s the the perfect spot to stretch your legs after a drive, watch the sky go pink and slip behind the snow capped peaks.
Day #003
We won’t ruin the surprise, but the view from your Bamyan hotel room is pretty special. Bamyan may be a provincial capital, but it’s lost none of it’s village charm and you’ll feel like you’re wondering through the lanes of a village, through fields, past workers tilling the fields by hand towards the remains of the famous Buddhas of Bamyan . Most travellers enjoy spending a few hours wondering around the massive site - there is a huge amount to see beyond the two main buddhas, and once you are tired of exploring the frescos, caves and niches the charming bazaar is only a 10 minute walkaway. The Hazara people of Bamyan are the most welcoming and warm in Afghanistan, and you’ll find yourself welcomed into shops, encouraged to try seasonal fruits and asked to join chatting locals for tea.
For those who have opted for a 3 night stay, it will be soon time to make the return journey to Kabul. For those who have chosen to stay another night, there are more of the city’s sites to see including Shahr-e-Gholgala (the city of screams) and to hear the story of the Dara-e-Azhdar or Dragon Valley, where legend dictates that Ali, the Prophet Mohammed's son-in-law slaughtered a great monster.
Day #004*
For those who have opted for a slightly longer stay, today is a day for mountain lovers and those who enjoy the great outdoors. Travellers will have the choice of spending the day at the famous and instantly recognisable blue waters of Band-E-Amir national park, or alternatively to spend a day with our friend and local hiking guide Mohammed meandering through the villlages and into the peaks of the Shah Foladi mountains.
Members of the Taliban hanging around the remains of Bamyan's famous buddha.
Pedalos are parked at the bottom of the Band-E-Amir national park
A close up of the remains of "Shah Mama" the female buddha at the East of the Bamyan city complex.
The journey to Bamyan through Kabul takes us through stunning mountain scenery rising to over 2000m in places.
Day #004 or 005
Your last day in Afghanistan. We’ll take a morning stroll to the British Cemetary or "graveyard of foreigners" as it’s known locally, where dozens of foreigners who have died in Kabul over the years are buried. It’s a place for quiet contemplation - although no foreign soldiers were buried here in the last 20 years, there are memorial plaques that have been erected to the hundreds of soldiers from the UK, France, Canada and many other coalition forces who fought here. Away from the noise of the city the cemetery is beautiful oasis of calm, and we will share breakfast with the keeper of the cemetery Aineullah who’s family have painstakingly, expertly and lovingly maintained the beautiful grounds for over half a century.
Before setting off for the airport it would be rude not to at least take a short stroll down Chicken Street and peruse the curio, carpet and souvenir shops that are a legacy of the hippy trail of the 60’s and 70’s when thousands of western travellers on their way to India stopped in Kabul.
Your Guide
Qudratullah Noory
Safarāt was founded by British photojournalist Joe Sheffer to open a window into his professional world. We understand that in choosing to join Safarāt on a journey, you are trusting us with your safety and security.
Our Afghan weekend trips are hosted and run by Qudratullah Noory. Noory is a former producer and ‘fixer’ with a wide range of experience working with international broadcasters including CNN and international NGO’s. He is a native of Kabul, whose family originate in Wardak.
Unlike our group tours, there is no international guide on this trip, but that doesn’t mean that the trip is any less safe, planned or risk assessed.
To better understand our experience, the way we operate, our safety and security plans and the realities of traveling in Afghanistan, we have written the following guides.
What’s Included:
- All accommodation: based on 2 guests sharing a room.
- Breakfast: is provided by our guesthouses. If we are required to make an early start you will be taken for Bolani and Sheer Chai in a local cafe.
- Private Transport: in your own air conditioned 2 wheel drive car
- Guiding by Noory Qudratullah
-Local Travel Permits and Photography Permissions
- Visa support and invitation
What’s Not:
- Lunch and Dinner: Noory will be happy to recommend restaurants to fit all budgets in Kabul and Bamiyan.
-Snacks and Water
- Visa Fee: Please see our FAQ below on how to get your visa.
- International Flights
- Entrance fees: There is currently a charge to enter Kabul Museum, Babur Gardens and a shared ticket for the sites of Bamyan.
Journey #004: Afghan Weekender
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The Afghan weekender was designed for travellers either transiting or living in the UAE or Turkey, but travellers are of course welcome to visit from anywhere. Although we have described the trip as a long weekend, you are welcome to book dates outside of the weekend and are flexible with dates.
The trip is available year round and although the mountains of Bamiyan are best visited in Summer, there is nothing more magical than seeing the Buddhas covered in snow and Kabul also has it’s own magic in the winter time (although activities like the wall walk may be difficult when it’s very wet or freezing!)
If Noory is unavailable on your requested dates, it may be possible to travel with one of Safarāt’s other trusted guides and drivers.
To book your trip please get in touch here or if you can’t wait to chat, then send us a whatsapp on +447458611911
There is a 25% single supplement for solo travellers.
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It’s a legal requirement that all of our guests travel with at least basic medical and insurance and we appreciate that finding a suitable insurance policy can be difficult.
You should be very careful if you have an annual worldwide travel policy in place, to make sure that you are covered for travel to Afghanistan as it is excluded by most general travel insurers.
The cost of insurance varies hugely based on where you’re resident, where you’re from and the time of year along with a number of other variables.
As an example, residents of the UK are able to get suitable cover from High Risk Voyager for around $100USD for a 4 day trip to Afghanistan.
Travellers on our trips are required to have a minimum of $300,000 USD cover for medical emergencies and an additional $300,000 USD cover for emergency evacuation.
For more information about out insurance requirements, please have a look at out our latest terms and conditions.
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There are daily flights between Kabul and Tashkent, Islamabad, Doha, Jeddah, Riyadh/Jeddah, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Istanbul and Ankara via two airlines - Ariana and Kamair.
We prefer flying with Kam Air who have a more modern fleet of planes, and are more reliable than Ariana.
If you are struggling to pay for your flights via Kamair’s website, we recommend that you use their app which seems to work better with foreign credit cards.
To book a flight on Ariana please use their website. Their flights do not show up on google flights etc.
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No specialist equipment is required for this trip, but you’ll be passing through passes of over 2000m in the mountains of Bamiyan and many of our travellers have been surprised how cold the province can be even in the summer. Sturdy footwear is a must and some travellers prefer to bring trekking poles to explore the unmade and steep paths we’ll be walking through.
Both men and women are required to dress conservatively in Afghanistan. That means both men and women will need to wear long sleeve shirts and trousers.
Women will need to wear a headscarf from the point of arrival in Kabul airport. You can read more about travelling as a woman in Afghanistan here.
You will need to bring between $100-200USD for spending money, lunches, water, drinks etc. Please only crisp and fresh $100 bills to exchange for local currency in Afghanistan.
Smaller denominations, old issues or damaged notes will attract a poorer exchange rate. It is possible to exchange Euros in some places – the minimum denomination is 50, but dollars are highly preferred. There are a few ATMs in Kabul, but they are often out of order and Afghanistan is still a country where cash is king.
We strongly strongly recommend carrying a mastercard/visa credit card with you in case of a medical emergency that needs funding before your medical insurance kicks in.
There are lots of opportunities to buy nice crafts, souvenirs, carpets and textiles so leave some space in your bags.
Simcards are available to hire from Noory directly for $30 USD for the trip with unlimited data.
Please do not bring a drone with you to Kabul - it will be confiscated upon arrival and it will create a huge headache for us.
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This is one of the most common questions we get asked from our potential travellers. There are two answers.
The Short Answer: No, it’s probably best that Noory or your guide stays with you when you’re out in the streets.
The Long Answer: The truth is that it’s probably best not to walk around Kabul on your own unless you speak a good smattering of Dari and have been to the country before. There is no specific threat to foreigners in Kabul, but miscommunication and misunderstandings are common and although more and more international tourists are visiting Afghanistan you will still stick out like a sore thumb. Getting round the city is complicated and trying to use publics transport is fairly baffling.
In Bamiyan the situation is a little bit different and there is probably more opportunity to get yourself lunch alone in the bazaar and have a chat with local people. Noory understands foreign tourists well, and understands that not everybody wants to be driven around and spoon fed information all the time - and will give you the space to explore places we consider safe on your own if you prefer to wonder and wander alone!
Alternatively Noory is also a distinguished raconteur and guide - he will be delighted to show you round his city and the most beautiful and interesting spots of Bamiyan shoulder to shoulder as fellow travellers.
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The situation with Afghan Consulates around the world is currently confused due to the change in regime in Kabul in August 2021. Whilst some Afghan embassies (Doha for example) are directly controlled by the new Taliban government in Kabul, most other Afghan embassies in European capitals are still controlled by the remnants of the old internationally recognised government.
This makes for a confusing and sometimes varying set of rules to get a tourist visa for the country, with each embassy having their own set of procedures. Some embassies have stopped issuing tourist visas all together (Geneva is one of these places), some embassies are still pretending to communicate with the Ministry of Foreign affairs and some are issuing visas to anyone with enough cash. Consulates in Islamabad and Peshawar tend to be easy places to aquire a visa, but are not terribly convenient for most of our travellers.
At the moment we can say reliably that the London embassy is still issuing tourist visas at a cost of £200 (7 days processing time, with an additional £140 fee if you want your visa within 24 hours). You’ll need to provide them a copy of our ATO license and an invitation letter to facilitate this process in London - this is still a requirement of the embassy despite the fact the visas they issue are no longer subject to approval by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Kabul.
For travellers starting their journeys from the UAE we have a relationship with a visa agent in Abu Dhabi who can collect and process your visa application for approximately $200USD within 24-hours.
For travellers starting their journeys in Istanbul, we are able to provide you with the necessary paperwork to support your visa application . Visas are available in 7-days for $100USD.
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As this is a private tour there is an opportunity to tailor the trip to your interests. For example if you aren’t interested in visiting Kabul museum, then you don’t have to go!
Please get in touch with us in advance if you have any specific interests or are looking to visit any specific places that are not listed.
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Please find our full terms and conditions here.
