VIDEO: Laura C on visiting Afghanistan.
To wear the Abaya or not?
A packing list for women travelling to Afghanistan
In September Laura C from New Zealand travelled with us on an extended version of our Introducing Afghanistan itinerary. She has written this blogpost to help fellow travellers know what to pack and what to bring…
It was really difficult for me to figure out what to pack in September 2023 as very few tourists had visited Afghanistan since the Taliban came back into power. Even fewer of them were women and I pored over Wandering Emma’s YouTube videos looked at what she, and what local women wore.
I could see that my Western clothes weren’t going to work and so before leaving home, I bought myself a plain black abaya. It was long, covered all the bits I needed it to (collarbones to wrists to ankles, was easily layered, and had pockets.
Safarāt’s advice is that wearing an abaya is optional for female visitors and that it is only requirement for women in some religious sites such as when visiting mosques. My feeling is that you should save yourself the time and uncomfortable stares, and get an abaya or two before you leave home – I felt more relaxed wearing one most of the time. During the day, I would wear a t shirt underneath, and baggy loose pants (sometimes my cotton pyjama pants). I wouldn’t recommend going out without nothing underneath, as you’ll be flashing your ankles and calves! At night, it was also easy for me to layer up underneath the abaya.
Laura C in her abaya and headscarf.
There were times that I traded my black cloak for hiking pants or leggings and a tunic (you want to cover your bum). Remember that you’ll find yourself in local guest houses a couple of nights, so leave any skimpy underclothes or strappy tops at home.
I packed a few different scarves for my hijab, and that was about as adventurous as my outfits got. Having a couple of options really helped as sometimes it got cold, so my warm scarf was very welcome. Bear in mind that you will encounter some extremes of temperature, so make sure you have appropriate layers.
After two weeks bumping around Afghanistan, my advice is to pack thing that things that are easily washed out by hand. We only did laundry once, but I found my abaya would get filthy from trailing in the dust each day. Having the ability to have a cake of laundry soap meant I could wash everything out and it would be dry by morning. The dry climate in Afghanistan is terrible for your skin, but great for turning around crispy fresh laundry, fast.
Lastly, pack shoes that you can walk all day in. You will be clocking up steps like crazy, and you cannot afford a blister. I bought trainers, hiking boots and sandals and wore them all quite a lot. Prepare for all four seasons in a day.
Remember that you will be taking off your shoes quite a lot as you enter homes leaving you barefoot inside. I found that my feet got freezing – but this was easily remedied by purchasing a pair of felt slippers from the women’s market in Bamyan town, as well as giving some much needed support to the local economy.
Laura’s Packing List
- Abaya (I bought a polyester one and I highly recommend choosing one in another more breathable fabric – the temperatures vary wildly!)
At least one long scarf to wear as a hijab upon arrival in Kabul airport – this is compulsory, but there are lots of beautiful scarfs available for purchase on the journey, so there’s no need to stock up in advance.
- Hiking clothing – I recommend finding a longer loose tunic or shirt to wear when hiking.
- Light loose pants – The weather particularly in the south can get scorching. I was thankful for a pair of silk cotton pants under my abaya while we were in scorching hot Kandahar!
- Down jacket – the temperatures got to below freezing in the mountains around Bamyan despite it being early in the fall. Lots of the group were cold and surprised at how cold it was.
- Fleece
- Thick warm socks – these can also double as house slippers in homestays
- Sandals – bring something dual purpose and waterproof for wearing in the shower or wading in rivers.
- Hiking boots – bring a proper three season hiking boot, Afghanistan is serious mountain country.
- Everyday shoes that you can wear for hours and not get blisters!
Toiletries and Hygiene.
I brought a hefty bag of potions with me, which I am really glad I did. Although I’m sure it’s available, I didn’t see things like deodorant for sale at the market, so I would pack with that in mind.
It is possible to get basic medication like ibuprofen at pharmacies, but stock seemed to be erratic, so I’d recommend that if you are likely to need something, bring it with you in advance. There will be a few nights where you aren’t able to shower or even conduct basic ablutions – this is where a packet of baby wipes, or a washcloth and bar of soap will be essential.
Hand sanitizer – keep plenty of this with you and use it before putting your hands anywhere near your mouth. Sanitation can be next to impossible and you will be eating with your hands.
Lip balm – the heaviest, thickest, and richest you can find. The air is dry and the altitude is high. My lips sustained deep cracks despite plastering on lip balm every moment I could.
SPF – The highest you can get. Afghan sun is brutal on the slivers of skin you are exposing. Even the autumn sun managed to absolutely fry my skin. Lather that up and reapply it, frequently.
Heavy moisturizers - I have the oiliest skin known to man. And despite that, the dry air meant I needed a thick heavy moisturizer every night to avoid scaly tight skin.
Floss - if you don’t floss your teeth regularly, you definitely will be after being in Afghanistan. All that kebab and pomegranate needs to get sorted out.
Sanitary products - Afghanistan is not a great place to be a woman in this regard and I don’t know what the women do. However, you’re going to need to bring your own products and probably make sure you carry around a plastic bag to store anything used in until you can offload them later – you will not always have a nice bathroom during the day. Difficult but true.
Toilet paper/ tissues – you need to have this in your bag or pocket, all the time.
Inhalers/ Histamines etc – Afghanistan is dusty. There is goodness knows what in the air. I have very mild asthma, and within hours of landing in Kabul I was wheezing and spluttering. Apparently this is extremely common. I used my inhaler several times a day in Afghanistan, way way more than I normally would, and got through stacks of tissues.
Everything else:
I packed some small things from home to give away - Manuka honey soaps, sparkly pens, socks with kiwis on them. I’d suggest you do the same – I noticed the children seemed to like them.
When we stayed in Bamyan, the women loved going through my clothing and makeup. They really really liked my skin cream, as well as chewing gum, so when I go back, I know exactly what I will be bringing for the women! I liked to have a few gifts for the women, as behind the scenes, they are the ones preparing food for us guests.
Sleeping bag and liner – not all of your accommodation will have sheets and blankets provided, and if so, not all of it will be freshly laundered. Having a sleeping bag liner was pretty helpful in guest houses.
Instant coffee – aside from Kabul, I don’t think I saw coffee at all. I had packed some instant espresso with me which hit the spot that the endless cups of chai were not able to.
Learn a bit of the language – definitely learn some basic Dari (Pimsleur has courses which I take on Audible). My little bit helped me to understand a lot more than I would have otherwise, and at the very least you can pick up the basic greetings and sound polite 😊
Sunglasses – that sun is bright and glary. Do not forget your sunnies.
Read up on some “Afghanistan” books – not entirely things to pack, but incredibly helpful for context and information on some of the sites that you will be visiting. I’d recommend Rory Stewart’s “The Places in Between”, and Craig Whitlock’s “Afghanistan Papers” as a start.
Money - You need to bring money, as you cannot get Afghanis outside of the country, and most cards won’t work in an ATM. If they do work, you are very limited on the amount you can get out in one day. Bring USD, and in crisp bills. Bring more than you need. When you leave the country you can switch it back at the money changers on the street, or the very lovely man at the cafeteria in the airport will change it for you at a not very good rate.
And last but not least – your electronics bag should have your camera, charger and a power bank. There are some long trips on the road, and you will churn through your batteries fast. There are also some nights in guest houses where you will not have electricity.
And there you have it, the definitive packing list for your Afghan adventure. Don’t forget to leave space in your bag for some souvenirs!